oaken1

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So, I am currently in the design phase of building a subwoofer box for my Tahoe. I opted to go with 2 Pioneer 10 inch subs. As a crazy afterthought, I decided to put the 10's in a ported enclosure. Then, inside the box, I am adding an Alpine 8" sub in a sealed bazooka tube.
The 10's are 1200 watts peak. The 8 is 900 watts peak. The reason for the disparity is because my personal experience has shown me that 8's perform at their best when they are being pushed. Whereas 10's perform better when they are not driven as hard... so the theory is, while at a certain volume...the 10's may be performing at 40 percent capacity while the 8 is performing at 60 percent capacity. This should help the box hit a broader spectrum of deep notes throughout the musical range.

The conundrum however comes in designing the right sized box to get the most out of the system without getting distortion. Some like distorted bass..I am not such a person.

Fellas, I spent over 6 hours last night calculating square feet, square inches, tube displacement...port tuning.....

and every time I would get a calculation done I would have to go back and re do all the others.
Because the bazooka tube takes up more square inches on the outside than it has on the inside...and the tuning ports take up more space tuned to 40hz than they do when tuned to 35hz...
then when you think you are done you have to reduce airspace by the square inches of the support braces you put in to make the box strong...then reduce it again to make up for the sound dampening media you are adding to keep the vibrations from one speaker from affecting the others.
each time you have to reduce space for one of these add ons...you have to recalculate the box dimensions to get back to your required 1.25 cubic feet of airspace per subwoofer.
not to mention, the chassis of the speaker itself takes up space so you have to deduct that from the internal space of the box as well.

It was an adventure..and I have come to the conclusion that this attention to detail is why guys over 55 just dont build their own subwoofer boxes... when I was 25 I just built a box and slammed in some subs and called it done...if it didnt sound good I just blamed it on the cheap speakers, lol.

I bought Pioneer 10's and an Alpine R series 8..so if it sounds like crap it is all my fault, lol..no excuses this time around.
 

Bada0Bing

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This is awesome. You just took me back to my 16 year old self in 1990 when I put 2 10" rockford fosgate subs behind my seat in my 1982 toyota pickup lol. It was nearly impossible to find a place to mount my 10-disc cd changer because the entire truck would rattle too much from the bass and skip the cds.

Good luck...sounds like a blast of a project.
 

Devilmaycare

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So, I am currently in the design phase of building a subwoofer box for my Tahoe. I opted to go with 2 Pioneer 10 inch subs. As a crazy afterthought, I decided to put the 10's in a ported enclosure. Then, inside the box, I am adding an Alpine 8" sub in a sealed bazooka tube.
The 10's are 1200 watts peak. The 8 is 900 watts peak. The reason for the disparity is because my personal experience has shown me that 8's perform at their best when they are being pushed. Whereas 10's perform better when they are not driven as hard... so the theory is, while at a certain volume...the 10's may be performing at 40 percent capacity while the 8 is performing at 60 percent capacity. This should help the box hit a broader spectrum of deep notes throughout the musical range.

The conundrum however comes in designing the right sized box to get the most out of the system without getting distortion. Some like distorted bass..I am not such a person.

Fellas, I spent over 6 hours last night calculating square feet, square inches, tube displacement...port tuning.....

and every time I would get a calculation done I would have to go back and re do all the others.
Because the bazooka tube takes up more square inches on the outside than it has on the inside...and the tuning ports take up more space tuned to 40hz than they do when tuned to 35hz...
then when you think you are done you have to reduce airspace by the square inches of the support braces you put in to make the box strong...then reduce it again to make up for the sound dampening media you are adding to keep the vibrations from one speaker from affecting the others.
each time you have to reduce space for one of these add ons...you have to recalculate the box dimensions to get back to your required 1.25 cubic feet of airspace per subwoofer.
not to mention, the chassis of the speaker itself takes up space so you have to deduct that from the internal space of the box as well.

It was an adventure..and I have come to the conclusion that this attention to detail is why guys over 55 just dont build their own subwoofer boxes... when I was 25 I just built a box and slammed in some subs and called it done...if it didnt sound good I just blamed it on the cheap speakers, lol.

I bought Pioneer 10's and an Alpine R series 8..so if it sounds like crap it is all my fault, lol..no excuses this time around.
Don't forget to account for the displacement of the sub itself. :) Stuffing the box can make up for some the lots volume too. Just stuff it with a good poly-fill. There's actually walmart bed pillows that work well for it and they're cheap.

I might I have built a sub or two in my time. This is what my couch sits on. With the big guy to the side of it. :)

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Bada0Bing

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Don't forget to account for the displacement of the sub itself. :) Stuffing the box can make up for some the lots volume too. Just stuff it with a good poly-fill. There's actually walmart bed pillows that work well for it and they're cheap.

I might I have built a sub or two in my time. This is what my couch sits on. With the big guy to the side of it. :)

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Holy crow! Your neighbors must love you haha.
 

Devilmaycare

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Holy crow! Your neighbors must love you haha.
I have a lot of sound control in the room. Bass traps in each corner and I framed in the front window as a big acoustic panel. It really cut down on the noise out to the street. It's really not that bad to either house around me unless I have a door open.

Inside the room though I can knock fillings out ;)
 
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oaken1

oaken1

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Don't forget to account for the displacement of the sub itself. :) Stuffing the box can make up for some the lots volume too. Just stuff it with a good poly-fill. There's actually walmart bed pillows that work well for it and they're cheap.

I might I have built a sub or two in my time. This is what my couch sits on. With the big guy to the side of it. :)

You must be registered for see images attach

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Yeah I accounted for the sub frame displacement.
For damper I am using a blue synthetic swamp cooler padding. It's about 3/4" thick and the consistency of a light sponge.
It's $50 a roll at the Depot and I have over half a roll left over from prepping my cooler for the summer. I think it's gonna work great.
Nice couch setup
 

JohnnyCakes

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Back in my younger days i had two Eclipse DVC 12's powered by an Eclispe 1200 amp/capacitor combo. Also separates all over, to this day i have issues with vertigo and hearing.

I wonder if that was why, hahaha
 

dreamcastrocks

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Back in my younger days i had two Eclipse DVC 12's powered by an Eclispe 1200 amp/capacitor combo. Also separates all over, to this day i have issues with vertigo and hearing.

I wonder if that was why, hahaha
I had two 15s in a Mercury Tracer hatchback. My system was worth more than my car a couple times over.
 
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oaken1

oaken1

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I had two 15s in a Mercury Tracer hatchback. My system was worth more than my car a couple times over.
LOL...I put two 15's in the back seat of a 1973 Beetle.
Couldnt hear it very far away from the car...but inside?? Damn, it vibrated your brain stem.

somebody saw fit to pop out my back window and liberate my box
 
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oaken1

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The final parts to my new car audio system came in last week.

Started on the box a couple days ago. I was disappointed because after 2 weeks of mid eighties my parts arrived at the beginning of a heat wave...so what should have taken a weekend is now taking a full week.
But I started assembly this evening. Tomorrow I cut the holes for my 10's and then go to paint....
Might be complete tomorrow but it's going to be 105 so I can't be certain.
It's going to take several coats of paint and some of the wiring is tricky..
I had to work without a table saw, scroll saw, or router...so the final fitment is not as esthetically pleasing as I had intended. But other than the initial "show off" nobody will see it anyway. I am much more concerned about getting the acoustics just right.

Good or bad, I will post a couple pictures when it's done so y'all can see how it turned out.
 
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oaken1

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FYI....

Rustoleum is TRASH.
I have been a loyal customer to Rustoleum spray paints for 30 years. That time is over.
These damn spray cans shift back and forth between just blowing out specks, and blasting into turbo mode like they have 160 psi airhose attached to them.
completely impossible to use. It wasnt just a one off because the second can was worse than the first. I ended up throwing the second can a few houses down.
I will never use rustoleums ********* products ever again.
any chance I had at an aesthetically pleasing project is gone. it would take me several days just to clean up this mess and paint it with a different brand.
I am so ******** pissed...I wish they had an office here so I could kick somebodys ass.

I guess Krylon is my go to spray paint now.
 

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