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Soccer fans, including Irma Perdomo, 40, left, Yocaira Brito, 43, third from left, Janeth Soto, 30, second from right, and Denzle Latty, 29, right, watch from Xtreme Tacos in Tampa as Mexico wins its World Cup opener against South Africa on Thursday. ©Hannah Walls
At the end of a narrow hallway inside Xtreme Tacos, a back room opens up, cluttered with soccer memorabilia. The restaurant’s co-owner, Uziel Ramirez, wedges in another chair as a group of regulars and friends grows to watch the World Cup opener.
The Mexican restaurant fills with jerseys as fans take advantage of a day off or bring their work with them to watch the late Thursday afternoon match. In sync with the supporters packed into the historic Estadio Azteca, the Tampa crowd roars as Mexico secures a 2-0 win over South Africa.
Norma Dutoit, 55, a third-generation American, was lucky enough to have the day free to witness her ancestral team’s victory.
“I’m not a soccer fan,” Dutoit said, “but a World Cup fan.”
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The Tampa resident’s anticipation for the tournament was enough to convince her eclectic group of five to tag along, with a range of allegiances, including Brazil, Puerto Rico and the United States. They arrived at the restaurant an hour early to watch the grand-opening ceremony with Dutoit.
“United Nations coming through,” Dutoit joked, referring to her posse.
If the scene reflected anything, it was that the World Cup is as much about blurring borders as it is soccer.
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Fans root for their countries, like Brazilian Rozana De Carvalho. Others on behalf of their loved ones. Dutoit’s order is as follows: Mexico, then France (her husband’s from there) and then Brazil, because of De Carvalho.
Denzle Latty, 29, chose Japan as his team because of its culture. Others follow their favorite players to a team: Marvin Morgan, 30, still roots for England due to Wayne Rooney, who made the last of his World Cup appearances in 2014. Orlando Torres, 38, claims Portugal will take the tournament.
“(Portugal’s Cristiano) Ronaldo is way better than (Argentina’s Lionel) Messi,” Latty said. “You can quote me on that.”
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As Mexico’s national anthem played through the TV’s speakers on Peacock’s Spanish broadcast, Dutoit mouthed the lyrics under her breath. In front of her sat a freshly concocted Mexican Chelada, a blend of homemade chamoy, Tajin, fresh lime juice, a pinch of salt and Modelo Especial.
An early goal by El Tri’s Julián Quiñones in the ninth minute queued a ruckus. Ramirez, wearing a Mexican jersey, jumped from his seat as Dutoit let out a piercing whistle.
As the cheers mellowed, Ramirez, 37, of Tampa returned to rearranging the seats like a Tetris puzzle. He walked over to his nephews, seated at Dutoit’s table, and booted them to a newly added corner seat. Two lucky customers took over the table seats for their food, while Ramirez and his brother, Guillermo Ramirez, 32, ate with their dishes balanced in their laps.
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Dutoit invited Samantha Pena, from Ybor City, to slide into the booth beside her so she, too, would have a place to eat. Pena was a first-timer at Xtreme Tacos. Dutoit asked if she was there for the game, too.
“I needed somewhere where Mexicans are,” Pena said.
Close quarters with strangers weren’t a problem for the watch partygoers. For most in the room, allegiance to a team came second to allegiance to Xtreme Tacos — and to co-owner Ramirez.
“It’s all because of Uzi,” his brother said.
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Latty, Morgan and Torres are teammates of Ramirez from pickup games they call “Sunday Soccer.” Dutoit has known the co-owner since before Xtreme Tacos opened. The opening match became a good excuse to return to their friend’s restaurant.
Above the bar, the game’s chaos mirrored the disordered chairs beneath it. Two red cards had already gone to South Africa, and Mexico’s string of near-misses kept the Floridians on edge. It wasn’t until the 67th minute that Raul Jimenez’s header allowed the room to exhale.
But with time left, the game’s referees were not finished. They handed another red card to Mexico’s César Montes — bringing the total to three, the most in an opening World Cup match. At the bar, the group of pick-up players winced at Montes’ risky choice
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“Why even put yourself in that position?” Torres said. “It’s a game that’s already over.”
As the final two minutes of stoppage time ticked off, Dutoit’s hands stayed clasped near her face until the final whistle released the room.
Even then, the night was not over. When Xtreme Tacos closed its doors to the public at 10 p.m., Ramirez planned to keep the back room open for friends arriving after their shifts. For them, the watch party would carry into the night with South Korea and Czechia.
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